Island Dreams and Realities: Exploring the Pros and Cons of Life in Orkney's Remote Island Communities
The Orkney Islands constitute an archipelago situated in the northern reaches of Scotland, which boast a population of approximately 23,000 residents, with 20 of the 70 surrounding islands being inhabited. These islands are steeped in a profound history where the threads of Neolithic and Viking cultures intricately intertwine. Despite their popularity these islands are often regrettably overlooked and sometimes frequently forgotten on maps of the UK, in the most recent scandal the UK government in it's incompetence used a map of the UK with Orkney and Shetland missing. Local MP Alistair Carmichael raised the issue in the House of Commons calling the move 'insulting'. The phrase 'out of sight out of mind' feels common here.
But what kind of existence does life offer to those who perhaps live at the apex of being "off the grid" within the UK?
As you first arrive on what the locals fondly refer to as the 'mainland,' the absence of conglomerates like McDonald's or Starbucks, and the conspicuous lack of other drive-thru establishments, serve as a testament to the uniqueness of this island sanctuary. Here, the rhythm of existence is not punctuated by waiting at traffic lights or succumbing to the morning rush hour frenzy that defines city life. Yet, it's precisely these absences that lend an endearing charm to the island way of life.
Embarking on my journey to Orkney two years ago, I did so without having previously set foot on these lands. My partner and I boldly seized the opportunity, leaving behind the familiar and setting our sights northward. We established our home within a lovingly restored island home nestled in the Northern Isles. A ferry ride of an hour and a half connects us to Kirkwall, the principal town on the mainland. This relocation has given us an experience beyond compare. Words fail to capture the sensation of standing amidst our garden, where the only sound that graces our ears is the gentle caress of the sea upon the shore. The ceaseless rush of traffic is an alien concept here; save for the sporadic island-bound aircraft, the clamor of commercial planes remains a distant memory. The tranquility that envelops us is nothing short of extraordinary. I would have gone so far as to say you can hear the birds singing in the trees but one novelty you may notice is that trees are very few and far between. The windy climate is just too much for trees to be established. So we instead make do by listening to the birds that live in the roof of the shed instead!
Our quaint island is served by two distinct independent shops, both of which make ferry runs to the mainland a couple of times each week to replenish supplies. It's truly remarkable the diverse array of goods available to cater to the varied needs of islanders. From vegan delicacies and specialized milk for different intolerances to the freshest catch from our local seas and locally raised meats, our shops offer a spectrum of options. Interestingly one of the shops even stocks the viral YouTube-famous drink, PRIME, mostly for the demands of younger residents. We try to patronize our local shops as much possible as supporting local businesses plays a pivotal role in sustaining our islands. And while you needn't worry, Amazon deliveries are indeed possible; albeit not at the edge of the world, they do take approximately a week to arrive. So, it's best not to place orders for items required yesterday!
Given the rather substantial ferry costs, we strategically limit our ferry journeys to a few times a year. A return ticket for two adults and a car sets us back £48, prompting us to make the most of each expedition. The mainland hosts both Tesco and Lidl, allowing us to stock up on budget-friendly essentials such as canned goods, freezer supplies, and ample amounts of pasta and grains. Winter can often bring in fierce, blustery conditions that can lead to ferry cancellations, momentarily disrupting our supply lines. My inner doomsday prepper urges me to maintain a well-stocked pantry, prepared for even the harshest weather scenarios.
Orkney Ferries providing a lifeline to the outer island communities
For many newcomers, the weather and climate might present a noteworthy consideration. It's advisable to visit the islands during winter to acquaint yourself with the full spectrum of weather before making a commitment. The weather in the Orkney Islands is profoundly influenced by the Gulf Stream – a temperate ocean current originating from the Gulf of Mexico. This infusion of warm air imparts a mild character to Orkney's climate, striking a nearly perfect balance between warmth and coolness. It's akin to a "Goldilocks" climate – not quite hot, yet not quite cold. Summers usher in a pleasant peak of around 19 degrees, while winters tend to linger around the 5-degree mark. Interestingly, I can proudly attest that I've never had the need to defrost my car on chilly mornings!
While the Orkney Islands' temperature might seem idyllic, the wind is a force to be reckoned with. Frequently fierce and at times verging on violent, Orkney's winds demand attention. Storms punctuate our days a few times a month. The worse storm experienced was "The Great Storm" of 1953, where winds reaching up to 125mph wrought nearly £1,000,000 in damages, fortunately sparing lives. In our time living in the Northern Isles since 2021, the most formidable storm we've encountered clocked in at 70mph, with the sole casualty being the lid to our compost bin — forever lost at sea most likely! You'll swiftly acquire the skill of weathering strong gusts, learning the art of battening down the hatches as storms approach. Just be wary of newcomers' mistakes, like bringing an entire garden patio set during your move, as it's likely to find its new home in the sea! Snow rarely blankets Orkney, thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream. Snow days are a rarity, often lasting no more than a few days. On such occasions, the heartwarming spirit of the community truly shines. Local farmers take to the icy roads spreading grit, while the local shops rally to assist the island's more vulnerable residents, ensuring that all needs are met.
In a time when numerous towns across the UK lament the erosion of community spirit, Orkney stands as a testament to its enduring vitality. The islands exude sense of welcoming, particularly to those who are new arrivals. Seeking assistance is as simple as making a request; the helping hands here are readily extended. Many of the islands boast a lively social scene, interwoven with crafts, clubs, and year-round events that cater to a wide spectrum of interests. Indeed, there's a little something for everyone. Yet, it's essential to acknowledge that residing in a tight-knit community where familiarity is the norm comes with certain trade-offs. Privacy can be slightly eroded. A sneeze at one end of the island is sure to make its way to the other end, and be the topic of conversation in the pub. As such, it's wise to be conscious of the fact that you maybe unaware of who's related to whom and while the local island drama is virtually unavoidable try to resist the allure of getting entangled in such matters it's often best to maintain a semblance of distance at least until you know you aren't about to gossip about someone's aunt!
The Ring of Brodgar - Standing Stones
Undoubtedly, one of the foremost advantages of residing in the Orkney Islands lies in the encompassing landscape. Here, you're granted proximity to puffins, an enviable position for spotting whales and engaging in seal watching excursions. Beyond these encounters, Orkney stands as a haven for avid bird enthusiasts, boasting a captivating array of avian life and well-matched habitats. Regardless of the direction you set foot, breathtaking views greet you—briny blue seas entwined with captivating landscapes, all accompanied by the presence of remarkable RSPB nature reserves scattered across the islands to explore. Earmarked as an UNESCO World Heritage Site there is much to see - The Ring of Brodgar, Skara Brae, Maeshowe, Stones of Stenness, Qouyness Chambered Cairn, Burroughston Broch and so much more history to live near.
Puffin watching on the Borough of Birsay
But perhaps nothing quite compares to the awe of witnessing the Northern Lights for the first time. Stepping outside your door, gazing upward to a night sky embellished with untarnished sparkling starlight, is an experience one must have. The graceful dance and ethereal streaks of green light that swirl away above you are nothing short of mesmerizing. While many would gladly pay a premium to witness such a spectacle, you're bestowed with the privilege of enjoying it from the comfort of your own garden—truly an unparalleled gift of nature.
The view from my garden one particular night
But what kind of existence does life offer to those who perhaps live at the apex of being "off the grid" within the UK?
As you first arrive on what the locals fondly refer to as the 'mainland,' the absence of conglomerates like McDonald's or Starbucks, and the conspicuous lack of other drive-thru establishments, serve as a testament to the uniqueness of this island sanctuary. Here, the rhythm of existence is not punctuated by waiting at traffic lights or succumbing to the morning rush hour frenzy that defines city life. Yet, it's precisely these absences that lend an endearing charm to the island way of life.
Embarking on my journey to Orkney two years ago, I did so without having previously set foot on these lands. My partner and I boldly seized the opportunity, leaving behind the familiar and setting our sights northward. We established our home within a lovingly restored island home nestled in the Northern Isles. A ferry ride of an hour and a half connects us to Kirkwall, the principal town on the mainland. This relocation has given us an experience beyond compare. Words fail to capture the sensation of standing amidst our garden, where the only sound that graces our ears is the gentle caress of the sea upon the shore. The ceaseless rush of traffic is an alien concept here; save for the sporadic island-bound aircraft, the clamor of commercial planes remains a distant memory. The tranquility that envelops us is nothing short of extraordinary. I would have gone so far as to say you can hear the birds singing in the trees but one novelty you may notice is that trees are very few and far between. The windy climate is just too much for trees to be established. So we instead make do by listening to the birds that live in the roof of the shed instead!
Our quaint island is served by two distinct independent shops, both of which make ferry runs to the mainland a couple of times each week to replenish supplies. It's truly remarkable the diverse array of goods available to cater to the varied needs of islanders. From vegan delicacies and specialized milk for different intolerances to the freshest catch from our local seas and locally raised meats, our shops offer a spectrum of options. Interestingly one of the shops even stocks the viral YouTube-famous drink, PRIME, mostly for the demands of younger residents. We try to patronize our local shops as much possible as supporting local businesses plays a pivotal role in sustaining our islands. And while you needn't worry, Amazon deliveries are indeed possible; albeit not at the edge of the world, they do take approximately a week to arrive. So, it's best not to place orders for items required yesterday!
Given the rather substantial ferry costs, we strategically limit our ferry journeys to a few times a year. A return ticket for two adults and a car sets us back £48, prompting us to make the most of each expedition. The mainland hosts both Tesco and Lidl, allowing us to stock up on budget-friendly essentials such as canned goods, freezer supplies, and ample amounts of pasta and grains. Winter can often bring in fierce, blustery conditions that can lead to ferry cancellations, momentarily disrupting our supply lines. My inner doomsday prepper urges me to maintain a well-stocked pantry, prepared for even the harshest weather scenarios.
Orkney Ferries providing a lifeline to the outer island communities
For many newcomers, the weather and climate might present a noteworthy consideration. It's advisable to visit the islands during winter to acquaint yourself with the full spectrum of weather before making a commitment. The weather in the Orkney Islands is profoundly influenced by the Gulf Stream – a temperate ocean current originating from the Gulf of Mexico. This infusion of warm air imparts a mild character to Orkney's climate, striking a nearly perfect balance between warmth and coolness. It's akin to a "Goldilocks" climate – not quite hot, yet not quite cold. Summers usher in a pleasant peak of around 19 degrees, while winters tend to linger around the 5-degree mark. Interestingly, I can proudly attest that I've never had the need to defrost my car on chilly mornings!
While the Orkney Islands' temperature might seem idyllic, the wind is a force to be reckoned with. Frequently fierce and at times verging on violent, Orkney's winds demand attention. Storms punctuate our days a few times a month. The worse storm experienced was "The Great Storm" of 1953, where winds reaching up to 125mph wrought nearly £1,000,000 in damages, fortunately sparing lives. In our time living in the Northern Isles since 2021, the most formidable storm we've encountered clocked in at 70mph, with the sole casualty being the lid to our compost bin — forever lost at sea most likely! You'll swiftly acquire the skill of weathering strong gusts, learning the art of battening down the hatches as storms approach. Just be wary of newcomers' mistakes, like bringing an entire garden patio set during your move, as it's likely to find its new home in the sea! Snow rarely blankets Orkney, thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream. Snow days are a rarity, often lasting no more than a few days. On such occasions, the heartwarming spirit of the community truly shines. Local farmers take to the icy roads spreading grit, while the local shops rally to assist the island's more vulnerable residents, ensuring that all needs are met.
In a time when numerous towns across the UK lament the erosion of community spirit, Orkney stands as a testament to its enduring vitality. The islands exude sense of welcoming, particularly to those who are new arrivals. Seeking assistance is as simple as making a request; the helping hands here are readily extended. Many of the islands boast a lively social scene, interwoven with crafts, clubs, and year-round events that cater to a wide spectrum of interests. Indeed, there's a little something for everyone. Yet, it's essential to acknowledge that residing in a tight-knit community where familiarity is the norm comes with certain trade-offs. Privacy can be slightly eroded. A sneeze at one end of the island is sure to make its way to the other end, and be the topic of conversation in the pub. As such, it's wise to be conscious of the fact that you maybe unaware of who's related to whom and while the local island drama is virtually unavoidable try to resist the allure of getting entangled in such matters it's often best to maintain a semblance of distance at least until you know you aren't about to gossip about someone's aunt!
The Ring of Brodgar - Standing Stones
Undoubtedly, one of the foremost advantages of residing in the Orkney Islands lies in the encompassing landscape. Here, you're granted proximity to puffins, an enviable position for spotting whales and engaging in seal watching excursions. Beyond these encounters, Orkney stands as a haven for avid bird enthusiasts, boasting a captivating array of avian life and well-matched habitats. Regardless of the direction you set foot, breathtaking views greet you—briny blue seas entwined with captivating landscapes, all accompanied by the presence of remarkable RSPB nature reserves scattered across the islands to explore. Earmarked as an UNESCO World Heritage Site there is much to see - The Ring of Brodgar, Skara Brae, Maeshowe, Stones of Stenness, Qouyness Chambered Cairn, Burroughston Broch and so much more history to live near.
Puffin watching on the Borough of Birsay
But perhaps nothing quite compares to the awe of witnessing the Northern Lights for the first time. Stepping outside your door, gazing upward to a night sky embellished with untarnished sparkling starlight, is an experience one must have. The graceful dance and ethereal streaks of green light that swirl away above you are nothing short of mesmerizing. While many would gladly pay a premium to witness such a spectacle, you're bestowed with the privilege of enjoying it from the comfort of your own garden—truly an unparalleled gift of nature.
The view from my garden one particular night
Comments
Post a Comment